The acclimatisation climb yesterday was a great success and I awoke after a great sleep feeling really good. Today we trek to Tengbouche. The day is misty again and the mountain peaks remain elusive. An initial climb leads onto a decent down to the river again where we have lunch. The sun is kind to us as it peeks through the clouds. We can see heavy mist up the steep climb ahead of us. At the top of this is the largest monastery in the area.
Bishnu, our guide informs us that the Lukla airport has been closed for 4 days due to visibility. Not even the helicopter has been able to land. Apparently our flight was the last to land up the mountain. It would have been so frustrating being stuck in Kathmandu for four days. He said the trek would have been shortened and Everest Base Camp would not have been reached. We’d have been gutted!! I don’t mind the mist as long as we are getting closer to our goal. I feel for those stuck behind. A light lunch in the belly and we cross another swing bridge and begin the two hour climb to our accommodation tonight. It is hard going all the way and heavy mist follows us right to the top.
Tengbouche is a tiny village with just a couple of lodges. Ours is pleasant and the beds are surprising comfortable although the rooms are tiny. There is barely room to move between the two wooden bases with just a small space at the end for our bag. The monastery is visible just outside our small window. It’s late in the afternoon and I forsake a shower. I place my order for Dahl Baht for dinner. “Dahl Baht Power!” says Bishnu grinning. “24 hour power!”
Finally the gods smile upon us the next morning and the mountains that have been hiding reveal themselves. The mist clears early and we discover that amazing peaks have been looking down on us all this time.
Ama Dablum sits right in front of us and to the left Lhotse with Everest peak peering over behind her. It is so beautiful! Cameras are clicking all morning before breakfast. Bishnu arranges for us to visit the Tengbouche monastery and we hear the monks chanting their rhythmic prayers. Its very soothing.
We continue our march to Everest in sunshine and spectacular views. Dingbouche greets us 6 hours later. The mountains around us are so tall and steep. There hasn’t been any Wifi since Namche and it’s the same here. On our second day in the village and after climbing a 5100 metre peak to gain more amazing views and help with acclimatisation, I have discovered a man with his own private Wifi and have managed this quick blog. I’m feeling good and confident in reaching base camp in two days.